HORK Enterprises
3221 Quick Road
Holly, MI 48442, USA
 +1 (248) 328-0231
 consult@hork.com

1996 “Love over Gold” Discover USA Trip

Dates	:	September 28 to October 12, 1996
Car	:	1996 Ford Mustang Convertible
Distance	:	7500 miles (12000 km)

So, I had been living in the US for almost two years and it was about time I got to see some of it! What better way to discover the US than by cat? All that is needed is some direction. Let me see..., I am in the South-East, in Florida, what is there in the North-West? How about Montana...? That sounds like a good idea. The TR7 is in a bad mood and doesn't want to run reliably. The Saab is doing 20,000 miles a year already. So, the best thing to do is to rent something fun. Like a Mustang Convertible. Sounds like a plan, doesn’t it?

Departure from Brandon (FL) Saturday, September 28 1:30pm. I-75N to Hwy 98W, Hwy 19N along the Florida gulf coast, onto Hwy 27N to Tallahassee. Decide to miss Tallahassee and take the scenic route through the Apalachicola National Forest.

I find that I have to get used to the Ford fuel gauge: a minute ago it showed half a tank of gas, now it shows empty...! While on Hwy 231N I decide to skip two gas stations because they are on the left of the road, anticipating that one will show up on the right soon enough. Of course no gas stations shows up after that just to get me really worried about running out of gas. When I finally find a gas station near Alford. The car takes just 13 gal. I was worried for nothing! (Btw. Ford calls this gas gauge inaccuracy “a feature”, claiming owners like it that way...)

On day two, I started with a one hour visit to the Army Air Force museum at Fort Rucker (AL). Then decided to press on a bit since the weather isn't all that great. Through Troy and Montgomery, onto Hwy 82W. That leads through the Talladega National Forest to Tuscaloosa and on to Columbus (MS). From there Hwy 45N goes straight through the cotton fields at Aberdeen to Tupelo.

In Tupelo I take Hwy 78W to spend the night, camping, in the Holly Spings National Forest. The campground is situated on Lake Chewalle and is far enough away from civilization to have an inky-black sky filled with stars. It had been a long time since I had been able to see the Milky Way. Here I can almost see its relection in the lake.

Pumping up my air matrass with the tiny (foot) pump, I brought, proved to be so much work that I decide there and then to give up on camping, for this trip. I must be getting old 😀 Day three starts out beautiful! I continue on Hwy 78W to Memphis (TN). Quite some time is lost trying to find the way to I55N. I end up driving through downtown Memphis and decide to relax by the Mississippi river. Nothing more relaxing than watching a tug boat push barges up the river.

I-55N takes me into Arkansas where I continue on Hwy 63N. That takes me through Jonesboro, Hoxie, Hardy to West Plains (MO). The road between Hoxie and West Plains is wonderfully twisty which gave a lot of driving pleasure.

On it goes, through Mark Twain National Forest, onto Hwy 60W to Springfield. Just before Springfield (near Seymour) I am taken back in time by the (I assume) Amish people riding their horse drawn carriages on the highway. In Springfield I take Hwy 13N and watch sunset over Truman Lake. This is a very eery sight with remainders of trees rising from the reservoir to become black sticks against the red and orange colors of the sky.

In Clinton I continue on State Road 7N, leading to Hwy 71N into Kansas City. Again the big town confusion makes me lose quite some time in trying to find my way to I435N and I70W. This must be about the time that I realized that 435 means the road is a bypass for 35, just like 240 means the road leads to 40. Funny people those Americans! Anything to save a buck on a road sign. 😀 Despite having to pay toll, I accept taking the interstate into Kansas and finally stop in Topeka at 10pm, having driven 600 miles for the day.

Day four starts late. It is midday before I get going. A quick stop in Ford Riley leaves me unimpressed with the achievements of the old cavalry. Never thought they fought equal opponents. The next stop is of more significance. Abilene, Kansas has a definitive “Wild West” ring to it. I visit the historic town (which could do with some enhancements) and Dwight D. Eisenhower’s birthplace, museum, and library. Respect.

In Salina I leave the interstate to return to the highways. First 81N, then 24W, through an area of large farms. The openess of the land is breathtaking. In the distance a river runs parallel to the highway. You can never actually see the river, but the tree growth gives it away. That too is where the farm houses are. With the telephone lines running along the highway, I can't help but sing along with 🎵 The Dire Straits: 🎵

A long time ago, came a man on a track
walking thirty miles with a sack on his back
and he put down his load, where he thought it was the best
made a home in the wilderness
he built a cabin and a winter store
and he ploughed up the ground by the cold lake shore
and other travelers came walking down the track
and they never went further, no; They never went back
then came the churches, then came the schools
then came the liars, then came the rules
then came the trains and the trucks with their loads
and the dirty old track was the telegraph road
...

I found the man, his name is Boogaards, a name as Dutch as Dutch apple pie. He runs a grocery store. I even found the cold lake. It is called Lake Glenn Elder. I, however, had to move on...

After a stop in Nicodemus, an original negro settlement, the car won't start. I have immediate flash backs to the good old days of traveling through Europe in the TR7. On every trip, something would go wrong with the car. But wait a minute, this rental car is brand new, this can not be happening. And indeed, some jiggeling with the gear lever solves the problem.
At the end of Hwy 24W lies Colby, where I stay for the night.

Day five brings me into the Colorado prairy, which turns out to be even more impressive than the Kansas corn fields. I-70W and Hwy 24W take me through Limon to Colorado Springs. A visit to the Pike's Peak auto museum learns me that the current record for a sprint to the top is about 10 minutes. That, I won’t try!

It turns out to be a lot of fun even at a more modest speed. Turns, turns, and turns, asphalt and dirt road and, most importantly, not too much traffic (this time of year). I quickly learn how to shift the auto-box, so it gets to a lower gear, before the turn, rather than halfway into it. If you shift down from second to first, you really have to punch the throttle hard, to avoid rear wheel lock-up on the dirt. If you leave it in first too long, the engine overheats! Although the air is getting cooler and cooler while climbing from 7000 ft to 14000 ft, I am getting hot!

The Mustang turns out to be somewhat of a disappointment as a rally car, with the rear axle trampling heavily in every corner, as soon as the throttle is applied. This car needs some serious dampers. I whished I had my TR7 to do this race to the top. That has possibly the best life rear axle through the design of Spen King and the help of Koni shocks.
So I make it to the top in about 40 minutes. To a breathtaking view, and the first coffee mug of the trip (been there..). Going down the mountain I am happy again to be in the Mustang instead of the TR7. But then nobody ever claimed that the TR7 had brakes...
I continue on Hwy 24W through Johnson Village, Buena Vista, and Lead Village. Oh, what beautiful vistas. Hwy 91N and I-70E bring me to Denver for the night.

Day six is reserved for a lap around the Colorado Rockies. First I go Hwy 76E through Denver, Hwy 25N and Hwy 36 to Boulder. That is a fun town with lots of students riding bicycles. Then it goes up, into the mountains. Just behind Boulder, on the other side of the mountain there is this vantage point made of boulders large enough to relax on. The view into the valley is very relaxing. I take a nap. This spot is popular with the students too. Nice. If I had to redo college, I would go to Boulder...

The road is getting narrow, as I continue up into the mountains. A road sign tells me that the road, I am on, is destined to be closed. They can’t be serious about that, can they?
The Mustang bottoms out a few times as I navigate around deep rain water groves. When I stop to check the road up ahead, I am met by a man with a gun. He advises me not to proceede further up the road, because the Mustang won't have the ground clearance required to make it over the top. I don’t argue with a man with a gun. So I turn around. Which of course is nearly impossible on a track that is just wide enough to drive on.

The “alternate” route leads me to the Gross Reservoir Recreational Area and over the Gross Dam. Here I decide to park for a bit. The scenery is beautiful, but I don’t have a clue where I am.
I slide down the rocks to the water level to check out the temperature (cold) and climb back up the mountain again. All this just to confirm that I am horribly out of shape.

That is where I am going	The Reservoir	That peak is where I was
See that little road?	You drive for an hour...	...and you get to the other side

I get on Hwy 72W and roll into... Nederland..?
At elevation 8236 ft. some Dutch descendants, with an obvious sence of humor, founded the city of Nederland. (Hé Anton, I found 🎵 the Dutch Mountains!🎵). The waitress of the local tea house informs me that in one way or another the name got misspelled, just like the town of Eldora (Eldorado) down the road. I left her ignorant, she was obviously English.

Further north on Hwy 72W. High up in the mountains a thunder storm produces hail. Back in the valley this calms down to a drizzle. The Elks in the Rocky Mountain National Park demonstrate proper herding to me. While the females graze, the leading male keeps the young males at a distance. Ah, autumn is approaching. It is that time of the year again.

Day seven starts out from Fort Collins with an exciting drive on Hwy 14W. This road is a must for every driving enthousiast. Hairpins and beautiful vistas. When for a moment the sun hides behind a cloud, I feel a bit of a chill. I look around me. No shit, Sherlock, you're in the snow! 10276 ft high, on Cameron Pass. The body warmer is donned, the top stays down. A beautiful scenery follows of lakes and reservoirs collecting the melting snow from hundreds of little streams.
Hwy 14W ends just before Steamboot Springs. After that the scenery changes. Fewer mountains and valleys and more plateaus. I now follow Hwy 40W. After Craig it gets more industrial and I get a little impatient trying to find Vernal (UT) and my next exit, Hwy 191N.
I enter “Flaming Gorge” just at the right time, sun set. The red sun light truly puts flames in this mountain ridge. With no other traffic in sight, the Mustang get the spurs and leaps over the plains at 85 mph towards I-80 and night rest in Green River (WY).

Day eight and I have lost track of time. I thought it was Sunday already and it is only Saturday. Since I have this extra day I decide to go west into Utah, and postpone my visit to Yellowstone National Park (the advantage of flexible planning!).
I-80W brings me to Salt Lake City. Pretty sad place if you ask me. The air is thick of salt and the sail boats on the lake don't even have the smallest breath of wind. It smells too! This of course is all different if you happen to be in the salt business. Then this place is paradise.

On to the high point of the day: The Bonneville Salt Flats. The Speedway is not as long as I had thought. It must be terribly short when you’re going super-sonic...! In the background Craig Breedlove is preparing to find out just that!

Okay, here are the facts: The 1996 Ford Mustang V-6 Automatic, convertible does 110 mph with the top down and the airconditioning off. It hits the rev-limiter (fuel cut-off) at 112 mph with the top up. Just a touch shy of Breedlove’s 675 mph.

The Utah white salt scape transitions into grey Nevada desert. Where there is water, there is a ranch along Hwy 93N. The town of Jackpot (NV) holds a surprise for me. A rodeo! I had never seen one, other than on television. This looks like a lot of fun for the ranchers. They are showing off their skills by roping calves. I can see how they get the rope around the neck, but how do you get the rope around both hind legs of a calf that is running and jumping, while riding a horse? Amazing! Thanks, Jackpot!

Time to take my horse further north. Just prior to reaching Twin Falls (ID) I pass the Snake river. Here just a small stream at the bottom of a deep gorge. This Snake river plain, with its potato farms, looks vagely familiar to me. Let's see, it is flat. There are potato farms with ploughed fields and storage barns. Hmmm. Yep, that's it: Noord-Oost polder. Definitly!
I-30W takes me through Burley, across the Snake again, but this time it is a pretty wide river. Without knowing it I must have passed a dam near Twin Falls, right? I-84 and I-86 take me into Pocatello for the night.

Day nine has a slow start, but by 10:45 I am on my way to Idaho Falls, on I-15N. There I take Hwy 26E to Swan Valley, Hwy 31N to Victor and 33/22E to Jackson (WY). Annoyance with a fellow road traveller (Yeah, you in the VW bus!) makes me go into the wrong direction. Correction follows and I get onto Hwy 191N into Teton National Forest, followed by Yellowstone National Park.

Of course I stopped and watched Old Faithful. The fact that this geyser has pumped its hot steam out for centuries at regular intervals is, to me, more spectacular than the individual events themselves. Yellowstone has much more to offer. Numerous hot springs with splendid deep blue water. mud pools, petrified forest, and the smell of sulfer that nicely cleans out the sinuses. Amongst the animals spotted were coyote, osprey, mule deer, bull moose, bison, and (I am guessing here) green winged teal and lesser scaup.
Been there. Done that. Got the coffee mug!

Day ten, Hwy 89N. What is that coyote doing outside the park? Guess nature rules in Montana. So, you may wonder, how prudent was I in this state without a posted daytime speed limit? Well on a desolate I90W from Livingston, along Butte, to Missoula, I did 90 mph. In Missoula I pick Hwy 200E to Greenough and then Hwy 83N to Evergreen. This is as great a drive as Hwy 14 in Colorado. Here prudent equals ability!

5pm. It’s too late to go into the Glacier National Park. But, it is too early to settle for the night. In Martin City a road sign points to a dam. That sounds like fun. It turns out that the road to the dam is mostly unpaved. That’s fun. After about an hour I stumble upon some road works. Did I say road works? There was no road. However, if I am willing to wait a bit, the friendly road workers will fix that for me. They just temporary took the road out to put a 10 ft drainage pipe in.
7pm. I have reached the top of the Hungry Horse reservoir. I now have three choices:

1. Stay at the ranger's station for the night.
2. Go back along the North side, the way I came. A 53 mile drive.
3. Go back along the South side of the reservoir. A 54 mile drive.

The (unpaved) south side road meanders along the lake shore like a Mandelbrot set. The last 25 miles I drive in complete darkness. The limited reach of the headlights doesn’t allow me to ever go over 50 mph, whereas 25 mph is more the norm. Fortunately the last 10 miles are paved and have some markings. I am getting tired.
9pm. I claim the last room of Martin's Super 8. Now I am ready for the night!

Day eleven. It’s time to experience the awesome beauty of Glacier National Park. This park is all around. Lakes, forests, and towering mountains simply engulf me.

To see it all at once, you either go on foot or...drive through it in a convertible. Many views are into the light and cannot be photographed, so you just have to suck them in, and enjoy. Like that fabulous vista of a valley with a little stream at the bottom and a glittering waterfall on the other side... Breathtaking. Been there, done that, got the...tea glasses?!?
I leave the park on Hwy 2E. I pass through Browing, Shelby, Havre, Glasgow, in search of a motel. Except for the regular trains that pass by, there is not a whole lot out here on the famous American prairy. I continue on through Wolfpoint, to Williston (ND), where I find a place for the night.

Day 12 starts at 8:30 when “House Keeping” wakes me up. Of course it is actually 9:30 since I have passed a time zone, but still...

I am on Hwy 85S, entering the Dakota Badlands and I am getting really annoyed with the fuel gauge. It seems it only has three readings: more than full, half, and empty. When I reach I-94 it has been on empty for very long. The car takes a little over 15 gal. How big is that fuel tank anyway?

I continue on Hwy 85S until I pass a sign that reads: “National Grassland Access; Burning Coal Vain”. What the heck is that? Of course I decide to find out. What follows is more than an hour of slippin' and slidin' on an unpaved and very dusty road. These lands are Bad! The steering of the Mustang is light so opposite lock is easily achieved with just one hand. That leaves the other one free to shift the auto box. While I am having tons of fun, little road signs keep sending me deeper and deeper into the Badlands. Finally I see a sign that guides me back to I-94, which brings me back to Hwy 85S. Two hours and 100 miles after I entered the Badlands I pass a sign that reads: “National Grassland Access; Burning Coal Vain”, and wonder: What the heck is that? I decide to give it a rest. Been there, done that! Where do I get the coffee mug?

On it goes into South-Dakota. The scenery is mostly grass lands. All the barb wire that lines the fields seems unnecessary and is a little disturbing. Two dead foxes are sighted by the side of the road. One that got away from the cars is hanging dead in the barb wire. I hope the one I spot in the fields awaits a better fate. As do the two deer that spurt across the road just a few yards away from my car.
At Spearfish I enter I-90E to exit that again after only 7 miles. It goes further towards Deadwood, which turns out to be a cute cowboy town. Hwy 385S leads to Hwy 16E to Mount Rushmore. Got the Mug! I stay in nearby Rapid City for the night.

Day Thirteen. I am up and going at 8:30. I-90E again just carries me a few miles. Exit 66 brings me to Ellsworth AFB that has a small, but interesting museum. Absolutely hilarious is the couple of doves nestling in the engine nacelle of a B52 bomber. They are not even disturbed by the thundering noise of a B1B taking off from the nearby base.

Now I am getting wings. Hwy 44E takes me through Scenio, Interior, and White River. Then Hwy 83S takes me into Nebraska. I stop in Valentine for lunch. Continue then to Thedford, where I switch to State Road 2E. The scenery is still very prairy like. The only trees I see are needleleaf trees and birch trees in small groups. Mostly the vegetation consist of shrubs. I pass through Broken Bow and Grand Islands, where I switch to I-80E until Lincoln. A quick load of junk food, and on it goes along State Road 2E. I fuel up in Palmyra. Nabraska City is my switch point to I-29S into Iowa. Just three miles later I am in Missouri. I must say, that the Mustang eats up the highway and interstate miles pretty good. It is obviously very much at home on these roads. It is getting dark. A 75mph cruise brings me to Kansas City (MO) where I take I-435 to I-70E. Another 75mph cruise takes me past Columbia, where I find a bed. It is 00:15; mileage for the day: 820.

Day fourteen. Getting in bed late takes its toll in the morning. It is noon before I hit the road. I70E takes me around St. Louis to I64E, which takes me through Illinois. This southren part of Illinois is really nice with decently sized forests. I continue on to Mt. Vernon and then take I-57S. When I-24E splits off, I follow that across the Ohio river into Kentucky. The Land Between The Lakes, is a beautiful waterscape. Kentucky is history before I know it. On it goes through Tennessee, around Nashville and further south on I24E. I decide to mis rush-hour and stop for dinner. Daylight runs out just when the road is getting interesting, in the south of Tennessee. I will have to come back here to do these roads in daylight! Past Chattanooga I switch to I-75S into Georgia, for the home stretch. No motel can be found along I-75S until I am past Atlanta. Oh well, that just means fewer miles for the last day.

Day fifteen. Without any drama I drive the final stretch home from 10am to 5pm. That is almost like a working day.

Day sixteen. I decide to wash the rental a little, before I turn it back in. It has mud from Mississippi, gray dust from Kansas, yellow dust from Colorado, white salt from Utah, gray dust from Nevada, sulfer from Wyoming, brown dust from Montana, and orange dust from the Dakota’s all over it. After I am done washing it, it looks (just) like a car that has been driven around the beaches for two weeks...
You and I know better! Man, would I have loved to have seen the look on the face of the Budget employee who checked in this car after my trip...! Two weeks, and how many miles...?